Tranny Question

  #1  
Old 05-28-2009, 09:30 PM
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Default Tranny Question

I had it in to have the tranny fluid and codes checked for the check engine light. When I got it back the tranny now works way differently and the engine RPM's are much lower at idle. The problem I was having that made me think the fluid low was that when started cold it had to get up to 2900rpm before it would shift to second. That occured under 25mph.
The RPM's are probably correct to be at 680-700ish at idle.
But now the tranny slams when I shift into gear. Putting it into R or D I have to be absolutely still or it slams the car and makes it jerk violently, even when it is still it jerks the car hard going into gear. It also has no power going forward when I start from a stop until I have 2500rpm or am going over 15MPH and doesn't shift to second until over 30mph and sometimes up to 40mph. There is normal power in reverse.
The codes show that I removed the battery cable 18010, and the air mass meter leak 16839, and the purge valve 16825 which is probably the cause of the not starting initially after refuel problem. I'm sure something was changed by the mech. When I called for the car they had only checked the fluid level and inspected the chasis, they did not check the codes and wanted $56. They had come up with a bunch of work on the chasis that I declined to do as well. We had an argument that he was supposed to check the codes. When I came to get it the next day they had checked the codes even though I had said not to after the argument. They listed what I have mentioned. So I figure they changed something in the computer settings to bring me back in. I can't see how anything else would have caused it since I had the problems that the three codes indicate before I brought it there and it didn't do this for the last 6 months I have owned it. I knew about these three things I didn't know the codes.

Any information to solve the "How" it happened question would help. I haven't called them back yet. How does one handle this sort of thing? This is the fourth german shop in town that has shown me it is crooked including the dealer. I've driven German for 16 years but this is the first "computer" car I picked up.
I am waiting for my Ross-Tech VCDS to come so I can check it myself in a week or so I'm wondering if I should wait or go have it checked out somewhere.
 

Last edited by newtome; 05-28-2009 at 09:43 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-30-2009, 10:47 AM
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As far as the trans goes a fluid and filter change should solve the problem. You could try a bottle of Lucas Oil anti-slip, it cleans lines and everything else, that works a lot of the time. If you can still drive your car I would just wait on the scanner to make sure what the codes are.
 
  #3  
Old 05-30-2009, 12:18 PM
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Thank You, I will
 
  #4  
Old 06-02-2009, 08:25 AM
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Let me know if this helps your problem. I have just replaced my engine in my 2002 passat 1.8t this week and on sunday I took it for a drive around the block after I got it fired up. Now comes the tricky part. Yesterday night after work I put a new exhaust gasket on going from the turbo to the cat. The car started up and sounded awesome. I rebuilt the turbo and now when I step on the gas I can actually get the car to twist a little like a old hot rod from the power. It also now has a ECS underdrive pulley system on it. This is a AWM auto w/ triptronic. But here is the f*d up part when I went to put it in gear I could not go anywhere. WTF!!! I drove it last night. I laost maybe a quarter of a quart of tranny fluid in the rebuild process but when I was putting on my new gasket last night I pushed on the cat a little torwards the rear of the car to get it off the turo which I have done before when putting in the engine but now it won't move in any gear. I can move the car when it's in reverse by rolling it. I looked under the car but didn't see anything different around the tranny but now I'm at a loss of what's the problem I have some idea's but need some help. thanks guys
 
  #5  
Old 06-04-2009, 03:05 PM
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Default Got my Ross-Tech

Ok so I've hooked it up and I have more codes. The original 3 18010, 16839, 16825. And now 18032 MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!) P1624-35-00- - , 16486, Mass Air Flow Sensor(G70): Signal too LowP0102-35-00--
I think both of them make sense for having driven it and for there now being problems with the tranny. The 18032 code indicates something with the Tranny Control Module. I don't think it likely it suddenly broke or changed while having the oil checked. I ran all the Modules and there were these two code for the Tranny module
18265- Load Signal: Error Message from ECU P1857-35-00—
00526 Brake Light Switch-F 27-00- Implausible Signal [a couple of the deck brake lights are out]
the codes above were from the Engine Module scan.
I'm guessing the TCM problem is related to the ECU?
I've got a new Air mass Sensor and purge valve to install. I figure that is most of it but I still do not know about what to do for the tranny. I'm gonna try to find an online TCM page. I don't even know where it is and my Chilton's doesn't seem to have it easily indexed. If you can tell me whereit is thanks too! I'm guessing a connection was loosened or it was disconnected and reconnected. I think this requires a dealer reset if it is disconnected.
 

Last edited by newtome; 06-04-2009 at 03:38 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-11-2009, 10:51 AM
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Default Tranny Question resolved

6-11-09
I installed the new Air mass Sensor and the new purge valve. I took the opportunity to install new plugs and wires as well.
As soon as I started the car it ran better, even with the broken PCV hose. [I broke it installing the new wires. I'm not sure that is the correct name for it but it is the line just behind the coil pack. It was very brittle. I drove aboutr 12 mmiles and it ran well with some fluctuations in rpm probably due to the broken line.] The tranny worked very well, it was into 3rd and 4th gear at 20 to 25mph and shifted smoothly. It also was smooth shifting from R to D with no jerks. I cleared all codes and will probably replace that hose today before the engine has a new code.
I'll post about the effect of the purge valve on restart after fillup when I fillup again. I don't drive a lot so it'll be a week or two.
EDIT
Oh yea there was a problem with the graphic indicator on the dash [PRDN12] and when I started up after changing out the parts it worked fine. Actually now that I think of it for the first time since I bought it. I don't see the connection but who knows I didn't see how the Mass Air sensor caused the tranny problems.
 

Last edited by newtome; 06-11-2009 at 11:04 AM.
  #7  
Old 06-13-2009, 10:27 AM
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Default PCV hose is

The Air intake/breather hose. It comes with all the valves. There is one on one end and a triple Tee connection at the other that funnily enough connects to three places.
It is a very expensive part $90+ normally. I found it for $60 then $53. I passed and installed a rubber hose. It isn't easy or for the novice to do this. I'm not a mechanic I am just competant with things like this.
I had to remove the shrink tubing on each end. Doing this makes it easy to brake any one of these parts. Then I just installed the rubber hose with hose clamps. Don't leave extra length or the covers won't go back on.

Anyway the car runs even better! So VW people IMO this is an important part and not to be simply repaired with electrical tap like it was by the previous owner on my car. Ait leakage seems to have a huge effect on operation. I'll buy the correct part now that I know it is so important.
 
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