I have a 2001 Volkswagen 1.8T and was wondering how often should I change the timing belt? and how hard is it to get the inspection cover off?

 

Althought I am not too sure about volkswagens. I know on MOST vehicles.. it should be changed every 70ish thousand miles..
my inspection cover on my jetta which is a 1988 .. is very easy to get off.. it was like.. 2 bolts i think. super simple...

i wish cars would do away with timing belts and use timing chains (like on trucks and jaguars.).. those can go for like 300 thousand miles before they will give you any problems,

 

When asked how often you should change a timing belt, the reply is inevitably after 60,000-80,000 miles. I would offer a different answer. First confirm whether or not there will be any damage to the engine if the belt breaks. For my 1996 Jetta GLS, the answer is no, so I just have my mechanic look it over during the required annual safety inspection to see if it is likely to break within the next year. My 1st timing belt lasted for about 180,000 miles. In the event it would actually break while I was out somewhere, no big deal, I just call AAA and get a tow to the nearest garage. I guess my mantra is if it ain't worn out, then don't replace it. I don't believe in replacing stuff just for fun.

 

Gotta step in on this one.

"In the event it would actually break while I was out somewhere, no big deal, I just call AAA and get a tow to the nearest garage. I guess my mantra is if it ain't worn out, then don't replace it. I don't believe in replacing stuff just for fun."

One of my customers had this same mantra on his 02 GTI with 119k on the clock...his timing belt went out and the valvetrain fell to pieces...shards of metal got into the combustion chamber and damaged the rings...needs whole new longblock. While I understand where you are coming from leaving something alone until it gives you a hick-up, there is a such thing as 'preventative maintenance.' Would you go without changing your oil in the engine or trans until it's 'worn out,' just because it ain't broke yet? Nuff said.

Even if you spend the $400-700 (absurd but true) to have the dealership do your timing belt at the 75k mark, you still walk away far better off financially than my buddy who has to cough up $3800 for a new longblock plus labor...or eat the $6k he still owes on the car he loves and trade it for something newer. My $0.02. Not trying to bash, but for God's sake be logical! Anjou's setup with 180k and original timing belt is...please pardon the pun...on borrowed time!

-eg

 

There are two types of engines that use timing belts. They are described as: "Interference Engines" and "Non-interference Engines" The difference lies in the proximity between the valves and the pistons. On an interference engine, if the timing belt slips even one notch, the piston can crash into an open valve causing serious engine damage by bending valves and breaking pistons. For non-interference engines, if the belt breaks, the pistons and the valves won't collide like they do in some cars (like the '02 VW GTI you mentioned?).

You must have missed the section in my reply that stated you FIRST need to know what will happen if the timing belt breaks (in other words, do you have an interference or non-interference engine design). I also pointed out that my timing belt is inspected annually by a qualified mechanic to verify that it is in good condition. By inspecting the belt, I have a reasonable assurance that the belt will not break, and if it does, I have verified that I have a non-interference engine, so in the worst case, I'll be stranded somewhere (an inconvenience for sure), but the engine will not suffer serious damage. So you see, I am in fact using sound scientific principles and logic. Where is the logic in an owner's manual that informs the owner to change a component after X miles whether it's worn out or not?

1996 VW Jetta GLS, 2.0L Gas Engine, Manual 5-speed, with 235,000 miles on the original engine and clutch. Now that's living on borrowed time, but I plan on keeping it until it's actually worn out. Some have suggested, my mechanic included, that the time has come for a new vehicle, but I still get 35-40 MPG on the highway.

 

Ok, I want to just cut to the chase....

I fully understand interference V.S. non-interference designs. For the sake of future searches by individuals seeking said information, what design (interference or non-interference) are the following engines?

1.8 Turbo

2.0 Naturally aspirated

1.9 TDI

I may be buyinga 2.0 Jettain Maryland and driving it back to Chicago and it has 99,780 miles on the clock and the dealer does not know if it has had the belt replaced. If I buy it I will be buying a factory manual but I will not be replacing a timing belt 1100 miles from my shop.

Thanks,

Ron S.

 

A handbook that i read written by Keith Seume says it is to be changed at 70 thousand miles to avoid breakage.. that book really helped me..


Use Castrol Magnatec for oil in your timing belt, it is now the standard for VW's..

 

it can damage your cars engine for it will bring great impact to the auto if the timing belt breaks or jumps a tooth while the car is moving...so better if you check if it still looks durable before it breaks..many sites are offering low cost vw timing belt..check some of it..

 

all volkswagen engines are interference engines. Change your timing belt NO LATER than 100,000K. If you are thinking about changing it, go ahead and do it, its well worth the money. If you are going to get a manual, get a BENTLEY manual, its what vw techs use for reference, everything else is just crap in paper form.


ANJOU, what type of mechanic told you that you have a non-interference engine? im pretty sure you do...sorry man, im with eating guy on this one, you are being ridiculous, i really cant wait till you come back saying your t-belt snapped, you bent some valves, and trashed your beast, which, you should feel blessed you have a car like yours, cars still running fine after that long are hard to come by, you have a really good thing going. if you dont wanna spend the money, do the t-belt swap yourself, you can get only the essentials for something like that for like 150 or less...no reason not to man

 

Does anyone really know for sure ,..i mean positive,... what engine in interference and non-interference? This thread does not clarify. Only depends on which post you want too read and believe.