I have a 2007 Jetta (2.5L BCG) with 185K miles that was running fine. Shut off the engine for about 10 minutes and then restarted. Engine light came on and runs a bit rough especially at low rpm or initial acceleration. Car runs okay at higher rpm although I can detect some low level vibration. Drove for 50+ miles with usual acceleration etc. After engine cooled (and codes reset), the engine starts with minimal vibration, but when I put it into gear and move a few feet, the engine light comes back on.

Detected codes P0016, P0300, P0301 - P0305. Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation, Random Misfire Detected, Cylinders 1-5 Misfire detected.

What does this combination seem to indicate if they all showed up at the same time???

What sequence of actions can I take to work through possible issues?

Thanks

 

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Fair enough ... was just in a hurry since my ride is dead (sorta). Thanks

 

Well, I've replaced the crankshaft sensor; no change.

Then I found that I was very low on oil (no dash light indicator), so I just changed the oil/oil filter; no change in error codes. It appears that i was down to under 3 liters of oil when the capacity is 6 liters.

I may change the cam shaft sensor too, before starting to pursue a timing chain replacement.

 

You need to find someone with VAG-COM\VCDS to check the system out and post any error codes found.

 

I'll see who I might track down for this. Does the following look like a legitimate source for a VCDS?

VAG-COM VCDS 2018 - OBD2 Diagnostic Cable & Software (for VAG Cars: VW, AUDI, SEAT, SKODA)

Thanks

 

Will the VAG-COM\VCDS give me more codes /repair direction than what I get with just an OBDII scanner?

 

That link a cracked cable and software.

 

*** Resolution ***

I thought I'd post a resolution to my issue. Sorry about the length.

Vehicle: VW Jetta 2.5L BGP, 2007 with 185,000 miles

Issue:
1. Driving back from the CO Mountains and the Jetta was running fine
2. Made a brief stop (10 minutes) and then restarted engine
3. Engine light came on and I noticed some misfires at lower rpm
4. Drove an additional 50 miles at speeds up to 80 mph and barely noticed misfiring
5. Next day I checked engine trouble codes and found:
----a. P0016: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation
----b. P0300: Random Misfire Detected,
----c. P0301 thru P0305: Cylinders 1-5 Misfire detected
6. Starting the engine was becoming more difficult

Repairs and Testing (note: fault codes are cleared before each retest)
1. Replaced the crankshaft sensor; no change in fault codes
2. Noticed that oil level was very low although the oil level idiot light had never come on
3. Drained oil and measured only about half (3 Liters) of the amount required
4. Replaced oil filter and added 6.5 Liters of oil
5. Replaced the camshaft sensor; no change in fault codes
6. Noticed that there was some oil just below the vacuum pump
7. I think I may have had a cascading failure. I believe my vacuum pump was leaking oil (oil 'mess' on top of tranny), then my oil level idiot light did not come on, then my oil level dropped to half of what it was supposed to be, which MAY have caused the timing chain to jump
8. Purchased a set of vacuum pump seals and rebuilt/reinstalled the vacuum pump. I did not anticipate that this would change any fault codes; it was a repair of the failure source.
9. Per the suggestion of Humble Mechanic I pulled and cleaned the N205 sensor
10. I noticed that oil level was too high. Drained oil until level was correct per dipstick
11. I wanted to verify that I had a timing chain issue before attempting that repair
12. Removed the ignition wiring and coils
13. Removed the spark plugs and noted that they were both dirty and had white deposits (overheating?)
14. Checked compress on each cylinder to verify that I had not damaged any valves. All cylinders were at about 135-140 psi, so there did not appear to be any valve damage
15. Removed the valve cover
16. Rotated engine (clockwise only) to bring the #5 cylinder to exactly Top Dead Center
17. Timing Chain check per Humble Mechanic: To determine if the timing chain was stretched or had jumped a tooth, I used some precision ground steel and a micrometer to check the flats on the camshafts to determine if they were or were not exactly level with each other. To my surprise, they seemed to be exactly parallel or if they were off, it was by less than 0.75 degree. This would seem to indicate that I did not have a timing chain issue
18. Reinstalled valve cover with new gasket
19. Installed new spark plugs
20. Reinstalled coils and ignition wiring
21. Reassembled engine cover and air intake ducting
22. Cleared fault codes and started engine. NO FAULT CODES DETECTED
23. Drove at moderate speed for about 5 miles. No issues starting engine, no misfires and no new fault codes
24. I’ll do some longer, higher speed trips to determine if the ‘fix’ is permanent
25. I’m not sure what finally corrected the issue but suspect it might have been changing the oil and replacing the trashed spark plugs or possibly cleaning the N205 sensor

 

I have had a intermediate stalling problem for 4 years now. Ever since I bought my 2010 Beetle 2.5 liter! I have been through many different codes and replaced many different parts since then. After changing the MAF, there are no codes, no check engine light, BUT still a stalling upon idle speed stalling problem! I then bit the bullet and took it to the local VW dealer for diagnosis. It took them over 3 hours but finally said I needed a new crankshaft position sensor. So got a Beck/Arnley brand one for $40 bucks instead of paying $100+ for a VW part. Thought it was fixed then it stalled out again! It has only happened one or two times since then but it happened.Took it back to VW dealer, after another 3 hours they said all they could come up with is that either the aftermarket CSPS was bad or I should have went with a VW brand part. Well I don't think that is it! But do I listen to them again and spend more money on another CSPS? With no codes now what am I supposed to do? I myself want to change the MAP and the camshaft position sensor now, as I think that Beck/Arnley CSPS is as good as any!

Oh before I changed the MAF, the codes present were:
P0113- Intake air temp sensor (G42) signal too high
P0102 - MAf sensor (G72 signal too low