Again I must stress that boost controllers are intended only for HEAVILY modified vehicles that need to use different ranges of power at diff altitudes/conditions (rebuilt engine, big exhaust, big turbo, etc) silVR6 is correct, changing max boost settings on a regular basis will confuse the computer and especially with newer computer controlled vehicles it may throw a code or decide to dump fuel and run rich. It may even decide to say screw the set boost and limit the boost back to stock settings anyway depending on manufac. Computers arent smart, they dont know you have modified your car, it simply uses lookup charts to decide whether something is within spec, if not it will go rich and run like crap to save the engine if it decides it cant adjust to set parameters. Chipping it changes these parameters which is why it is effective, on the other edge of the blade it also makes more room for damage to occur to the engine.

 

As far as what you should do, save your money up and get the chip. Dont bother with the boost controller unless you have some serious mods invested first. I have heard some rumor that flashing it at the dealer will free up some considerable power since it is so tunred down to begin with, but I do not know if this is true to any extent. Typically when you flash it certain key values are not erased and you may end up with the same thing you started with.

 

well before i turn up the boost, i'm getting all of the equipment that will prepare for the increase in boost. So that i'm not missing parts that will or could damage the turbo without them. From my listening and researching the chip is to support the increase in boost. ie. air/fuel ratio, all aftermarket parts, etc. From my limited knowledge this is why the manufacturer want to know what aftermarket parts you have, so they can design the chip for your parts. for example there is going to be a different air/fuel ratio for a car that has an intake, full exhaust, and intercooler vs. a car that is just running on a cai and stock equipment. That's why i'm getting all my parts first, give it to the manufacturer, increase the boost, then get the chip so that my engine management is optimized with the chip. Then again I could be all wrong. Who knows???? i'm learning just like you are.

 

Really Great info here guys, love it
and now I'm just gonna wait until i can get a bigger turbo

 

well i wasn't planned on changing the boost setting frequently. Once i set it, it will stay set at that psi until i get other mods that will allow for higher boost setting. i only was thinking around 12-14 and let it stay set. And what are the serious mods that you are referring to that i should invest in. thanks for the information.

 

Yeah that sounds alright. The reason u dont want too high a boost setting is because your power will be all turbo and no motor. It'll pretty much be a turbo with a motor attatched instead of the other way around. Also really bad turbo lag. You can do fine with low boost. I beat a Honda Integra DC-2 Type-R by 4 lengths with just a short ram intake and an ecu re-flash making an estimated 205 crank horsepower at 9psi on my car. That Type-R happens to the Japanese market version, which is no ricer honda. Man this has become a really informational thread! Good work guys! Best of luck sleeper.

 

silvr6, who did you go with for the ecu reflash? any suggestions.

 

Well my re-flash was free sleeper. A friend of mine who attends volkswagen meets at the Varsity in atlanta used GIAC plug and play software with his laptop specifically to flash the ecu and make some adjustments with my air-fuel ratios and peak hp peak torque settngs. My suggestion to you since i dont know how much it can cost to re-flash is to purchase an APR racing chip, re-flash the ecu and then dyno-tune your car. The results should be amazing. Re-flash and dyno can gain up to 22 hp easilsy each if done right and an APR chip has been known to gain about 35. this is all crank hp btw. Yeah i still dont know what my wheel hp is.

 

that's cool i was thinking about gaic chip though, have you heard anything. and when you get the chip does it automatically re-flash itself when you intall the chip, is it something that comes with the chip program, or is it something that i have to do with the dealer. let me know.

 

"Chipping" is literally changing the programming in your ECU, you should not need to flash if you replace the chip.

Actual WHP on the 1.8T is 145HP stock, RWD and FWD lose approx 15-20% from crank to wheels. AWD loses up to 35%. 2.0T came in at 178 WHP. The 1.8T has exceptional lines on the dyno, the 2.0T had amazing lines but are tuned for such, still good to know.