Question about my intake.
 

Yeah so i just ordered my ESE Tuning single-stage air-intake a few days back and was wondering, do you think it will significantly increase the sound of my stock diverter valve? And i realize this may be a dumb question but it wont have any effect on my PSI of boost will it? Even though it is sucking in more air? Thanks for any and all help guys. Heres the link to the exact intake i ordered. http://www.esetuning.com/product-p/e...le-intakes.htm Its really just a cone filter w/breather and heatshield that replaces the stock airbox and bolts on to the stock intake piping.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Yes your diverter will be louder, I dont know what you would consider significantly but imo yes. No it will not affect your boost pressure, it may get to max boost a LITTLE faster and any extra air will be purged through your diverter and wastegate. That turbo is not very big, dont try to raise the PSI on the stock application you will lose power and overheat.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Remember Turbo's are Exhaust driven, not intake driven.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Oh ok thanks. Yeah we've been through the raising the boost thing. Thanks though.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Np, see if u can post pics when u get it installed im curious.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Yeah like he said it wont affect boost, but itll get you there quicker, throttle response should be a little better, and the DV will be louder, probably pretty loud, considering i am still using the stock airbox with a K&N panel and 3inch CA tubing and mine is easily heard, im thinkin that with an open filter itll be loud.
let us know

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Hm ill finally have that little pssht when i let off. SWEET lol.. Yeah ill put up pics oh and i got some pic of my car that i should have up pretty soon.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

how hi do you think we could raise the boost on the stock turbo without overheating the engine.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

The point is, you DO NOT want to raise the psi on the stock turbo. It will not overheat the engine, it will overheat the turbo, so you will lose power. If you want to look into playing with your boost do some research and understand how the system works before attempting something like that. Again you will not make any power and it will overheat the turbo. I have done it personally on an old 1.8T we were trying to blow up as an experiment with the dyno.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

If you are asking hypothetically, if you were to raise the psi to 20psi and drive it for an extended period of time, the turbine may weld to the intermediate shaft and destroy your turbo, if this didnt happen the heat would damage the compressor wheel fairly quickly if not destroy it. Also the turbo would be so hot when you turn it off even if you waited a few minutes it would boil oil and coke up. Before this happens the air generated by the extra boost would most likely be too hot for the stock intercooler to handle and you would be forcing hot air into the engine, which probably would cause it to overheat.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Someone told me that the stock turbos on GTIs are watercooled and not oil cooled. Is that true? Sounds kinda iffy.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Well to say that it is "watercooled" OR oil cooled would both be incorrect. The turbo is cooled by both oil (which also lubricates) AND coolant. This is not in most turbos, but it is true in the 2.0T FSI. This is a rather large step in technology as it keeps the turbo much cooler than with oil cooling alone. However to say that it is "water cooled and not oil cooled" is just plain wrong on many levels afterall coolant has little to no lubricating properties and it would be pointless to use it as such. Running your turbo with no oil would be the same as running your engine with no oil, if not worse since turbine wheel speeds can exceed 105,000RPM generating enormous amounts of heat.

It works like this: During normal engine operations oil passages lubricate and cool the turbo, some turbos also have separate coolant passage built in which also assists in cooling. The thing to note about this is that the 2.0T FSI also has an auxiliary coolant pump which is only turned on once the car is shut off and the turbo is excessively hot. This pump forces coolant against the normal flow for a short period of time, hopefully saving the turbo from "Oil Lag" which occurs when the engine is shut off while the turbo is still hot, causing it to boil the oil trapped inside and "coking up" in the turbo eventually leading to failure.

Cool technology yes, and it has sparked many debates about whether there is any longer a need for turbo timers or a "cooldown period". My belief is that this system is purely to assist the turbo in fully cooling down after shutoff, it does not in any way replace the recommended "cooldown period" due to the fact that the oil has still stopped flowing and is trapped in the turbo, which is still very hot. It may reduce the amount of buildup since it cools down faster but certainly not eliminate it. For anyone who does not understand this "cooldown" procedure:

On ANY vehicle equipped with a turbocharger, it is strongly recommended that you leave the car running AT LEAST 45seconds, preferably 2 minutes after parking before shutdown to prevent the condition detailed above. Failure to do so WILL result in reduced turbo life and slow decrease in performance due to buildup.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

thanks for the info Tech, i've picked up a lot of that before but not all so thanks for taking the time to input.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

okay then, at what point or psi will the turbo handle before it starts to overheat, burn, melt, or whatever. i'm only asking because there are individual on this website that says it can handle up to 15psi stock. By the way this is my research, duh! i never said i've done anything, but could be, will be, possible done in the future. I'm just trying to find out my limitations with some stock internals and other aftermarket equipment (CAI, forge DV, N75J valve, exhaust maybe), before i started doing heavyduty work and modifications.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

I've heard that the KO3S can hold that much stock, I know of people that have done this too,
and that can be attained with a chip or boost controller im sure, but safely? without damage to the turbo?
I surely dont know

RE: Question about my intake.
 

are there any specs on the ko3s turbo. ie, temp rating, boost rating, etc. if you know anything it would be helpful. i'll try to google it. if i find anything i'll let you know.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Of course it can hold that much boost, whether its safe over long periods of time is debateable, it is not a large turbo. Obviously every turbo has a thresh-hold between where it makes max power, anything after which it is just generating heat because the method of cooling can no longer support the heat generated and every psi above stock generates extra heat even if it makes power, whether the cooling can compensate or not.

My professional opinions on the issue of raising boost on the Ko3S stated above, in my personal opinion though from the dynos I have done with it the max pressure is about 16psi with everything else stock. After which gains become less noticeable if any and it begins losing large amounts of power and overheating around 18psi. You can run with 15 but I recommend chipping it to make the nessessary engine adjustments to support this additional boost. You do not want to simply raise the boost ever if it can be avoided, kind of like ghetto-rigging or changing engine components without adjusting timing/fuel. Some would probably say well why are boost controllers readily available, this is purely for cars that race under different conditions/altitudes and are usually heavily modified, this massive misconception amongst enthusiasts that you can nearly double your boost and make power on stock to lightly modified probably destroys more turbo engines than I could count.

Anyway if your gonna raise boost chip it, if they allow you to choose parameters I would not go over 13psi if it was me. VW dumbs down their engines a very considerable amount which is where you get their impressive refinement from, trading raw power for quality (ex: 2.0T making max power from 5100-redline), simply changing the programming can drastically alter output while keeping in mind youll lose some of that VW tuning magic.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Lots of great info in this thread. Anyway i just got my intake in and as anticipated my DV is loud as hell and believe it or not ive actually gained 10 crank horsepower. About 4whp. Ill get pics up soon. It was pretty easy to install.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Thanks alot man, that was great, excellent, etc information. that's is what exactly i needed to know. Now i can make the adjustments that i need to do what i want with my car. I'll probably ask the dealer to flash it, if they can (when i go to get some service) to accomodate the boost controller and higher boost until i can afford an actual chip from GAIC. Or do you think that i should just get my boost controller then my chip from GAIC. What would be your reccomadation?

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Hey man i know your question wasnt aimed at me but in my personal opinion i think you should chip your car first and then get a boost controller. I myself am going to get an APR chip and then set my boost at 12psi w/out a controller. When you tamper with boost settings alot when using an electronic boost controller your ECU doesnt get used to any regular setting and it becomes less fine tuned due to different air-fuel ratios constantly beign set because of different boost loads.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Again I must stress that boost controllers are intended only for HEAVILY modified vehicles that need to use different ranges of power at diff altitudes/conditions (rebuilt engine, big exhaust, big turbo, etc) silVR6 is correct, changing max boost settings on a regular basis will confuse the computer and especially with newer computer controlled vehicles it may throw a code or decide to dump fuel and run rich. It may even decide to say screw the set boost and limit the boost back to stock settings anyway depending on manufac. Computers arent smart, they dont know you have modified your car, it simply uses lookup charts to decide whether something is within spec, if not it will go rich and run like crap to save the engine if it decides it cant adjust to set parameters. Chipping it changes these parameters which is why it is effective, on the other edge of the blade it also makes more room for damage to occur to the engine.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

As far as what you should do, save your money up and get the chip. Dont bother with the boost controller unless you have some serious mods invested first. I have heard some rumor that flashing it at the dealer will free up some considerable power since it is so tunred down to begin with, but I do not know if this is true to any extent. Typically when you flash it certain key values are not erased and you may end up with the same thing you started with.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

well before i turn up the boost, i'm getting all of the equipment that will prepare for the increase in boost. So that i'm not missing parts that will or could damage the turbo without them. From my listening and researching the chip is to support the increase in boost. ie. air/fuel ratio, all aftermarket parts, etc. From my limited knowledge this is why the manufacturer want to know what aftermarket parts you have, so they can design the chip for your parts. for example there is going to be a different air/fuel ratio for a car that has an intake, full exhaust, and intercooler vs. a car that is just running on a cai and stock equipment. That's why i'm getting all my parts first, give it to the manufacturer, increase the boost, then get the chip so that my engine management is optimized with the chip. Then again I could be all wrong. Who knows???? i'm learning just like you are.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Really Great info here guys, love it
and now I'm just gonna wait until i can get a bigger turbo :)

RE: Question about my intake.
 

well i wasn't planned on changing the boost setting frequently. Once i set it, it will stay set at that psi until i get other mods that will allow for higher boost setting. i only was thinking around 12-14 and let it stay set. And what are the serious mods that you are referring to that i should invest in. thanks for the information.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Yeah that sounds alright. The reason u dont want too high a boost setting is because your power will be all turbo and no motor. It'll pretty much be a turbo with a motor attatched instead of the other way around. Also really bad turbo lag. You can do fine with low boost. I beat a Honda Integra DC-2 Type-R by 4 lengths with just a short ram intake and an ecu re-flash making an estimated 205 crank horsepower at 9psi on my car. That Type-R happens to the Japanese market version, which is no ricer honda. Man this has become a really informational thread! Good work guys! Best of luck sleeper.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

silvr6, who did you go with for the ecu reflash? any suggestions.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Well my re-flash was free sleeper. A friend of mine who attends volkswagen meets at the Varsity in atlanta used GIAC plug and play software with his laptop specifically to flash the ecu and make some adjustments with my air-fuel ratios and peak hp peak torque settngs. My suggestion to you since i dont know how much it can cost to re-flash is to purchase an APR racing chip, re-flash the ecu and then dyno-tune your car. The results should be amazing. Re-flash and dyno can gain up to 22 hp easilsy each if done right and an APR chip has been known to gain about 35. this is all crank hp btw. Yeah i still dont know what my wheel hp is.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

that's cool i was thinking about gaic chip though, have you heard anything. and when you get the chip does it automatically re-flash itself when you intall the chip, is it something that comes with the chip program, or is it something that i have to do with the dealer. let me know.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

"Chipping" is literally changing the programming in your ECU, you should not need to flash if you replace the chip.

Actual WHP on the 1.8T is 145HP stock, RWD and FWD lose approx 15-20% from crank to wheels. AWD loses up to 35%. 2.0T came in at 178 WHP. The 1.8T has exceptional lines on the dyno, the 2.0T had amazing lines but are tuned for such, still good to know.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

Anytime you get a chip you need to flash the computer. If you don't, and it needs to be done, have fun walking. That chip will not work with anything, that's why you "Flash" the ECU so that they work together. I have a GIAC, it's great. Never had a problem, had it installed, flashed, and go to go.

RE: Question about my intake.
 

BIG QUESTION???? if you already answered it im sorry. but remember i'm very slow. i need exact instructions. HOW DO I RE-FLASH, FLASH, LOOK AT, OR WHATEVER MY ECU, WITH OR WITHOUT A CHIP. HELLLPPPPPP! I WANT THE POWER[:-]