Hello everyone

Well I have a problem. I built a VW trike. The engine is a 1970 (if I remember right), itwas rebuilt from the block upby an older gentlemen. A great VW mechanic whohas been working with VWs. Well anyway I think I messed the timing up, trike barley runs, when acceleratoris press bike will not rev no change, just blubs, not a clean idle. andthat is it.

Reason I think I messed the timing up is I had a enginedress up kit given to me and I was goign to put the chrome distributor clamp on.

I loosened the nut, but I made two marks one on the distrubutor and one the the case so I woudl not loose the spot. I then started to lift the distributor. I lifted it about 1/4" and said you know I do not know if I am suppose to pull this out. So, I put it back down and made sure the two marks I made lined back up and tighted the nut on the clamp and that was it.

The only other thing I did tonight was ake the nut off the top pulley and replaced the nut with a crome dressed up nut.

So I guess I am lost, and panicking. I do not have a timing light, nor would I know how to do it if I did.

Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !! I am begging

Thanks

 

Calm down! The timing light you use with the mark on your crank pulley, or harmonic balancer. As far the the distributor, make sure it is all the way in!! Second, turn the distributor left or right after you put in, the idle will get worse or better. That should line up your timing.

 

Seems to easy, The thing that I do not get is I marked the distributor and case so I know it woud be lined back up, I never took it all the way out at very most I lifted it was a 1/2".

Is there anything that could have unhooked, or moved out of for the distributor to not work right when I pushed it back down, (I got scared and did not take it all the way out, lifted it about 1/4" to 1/2" at most) Put it back down lined my marks up I made. Then It was a little while after when I tried starting it it just does not run right now. Can not rev the enigine, barley idles, have to feather the gas quite a bit to keep it running some times until it is warmed up, then it barely idles by it self.

Can I do the timing the test light way, or do I have to have a timing light? Like I said I can not remember the year of the engine, it is late 60's I believe.

Thanks everyone.

 

it only goes in one way
did you take the intake manafold off to put crome tins on?
might have a major intake leek

 

No I did not take anything off. I just lifted the distributor up a max 1/2" got scared, and pushed it back down lined my marks I made back up and tightened the nut back down.

I put no tins on nor, removed the intake manifold.

Rans great before I lifted the distributor. Is there any possablility that the distributor is just not seated all the way down?

 

Well I think I got it I just loosened the distributor and turned it till the engine ran better. I ordered a timing light and will get it exact when I get that.

Another question, how do you get the nut out f the oiler filler, I have a chrome one I want to put on. looks like it needs a special wrench, that I do not have.

any tricks? Thanks

 

ya its a round plate with two notches on it fits into the groves on the nut find a empi dealer
you might get a pipe remover to fit inside it and get it loose that way 5102 or the 5761 works better you can put it back on with it



you need to come look at the air 2 water forum we need new members

 

Hey My fater was telling me of a trick that you can do with the clutch cable (put a crimp in it, or someting like that) Which will allow to compensate for the rocking of the engine. This will allow you to shift harder and faster without problems.

any idea's what he is talking about? LOL

Also what would cause you to have to be going very slow in order to down shift. Theroretically (I amnot good at spelling) I should be able to push the clutch in, coast and,put the lever in first gear (or second gear position), thencoasting and slowing as if coming up on a yield sign, then when going slow enough let off clutch and continue on the way in first, or secondwithout stopping. My problem is I push the clutch in but unless I amslowed right down I can not get it into thegear position,it will grind, etc. until I am almost to a stop before t goes in.

All in all it is making the Trike more difficult drive then it should (shifting wise)LOL

I know I did not explain the best, Bare with me.

Thanks everyone

 

some of the older vw tranys are very low geared so they dont down shift very good

does your clutch cable have a tube on it between the pan and the trany if not it needs one they call it a boden tube and it takes the chatter out of the clutch
it goes on the diff cover on the clutch arm side of the trans
another way to go would be hydrolic you could look at that empi site they have slave and master cylinder sets on there makes it alot smother
i suck at spelling to but its all good


come join us at air 2 water link below

 

Guys Seems hard to get the tming right because my idle moves up and down a good amount. If you step on the accelerator it will rev, then let off and idle will drop below normal idle then slowly come back up to where it should be and idle great but the whole cycle repeats it self when you press the pedal and let go again.

The carb I have on the engine is a "fits all" 30 pict carb if I remember right. I thinkthe vaccum hose may have somethign to do with my problem? I have 3 ("places") the coudl go on the carb, one on the leftside and two on the front of the carb (on the side towards the rear of the car) But with this I took it right off the carb with it running, and nothing seemed to happen, could the vacuum unit be bad? If so how do I know?Or do I not even need it hooked up.

Thanks for all the help and baring with me.

I do have a repair manuel but it is not to clear in places.

Thanks again