Funky Brakes!!!!!! Need help ASAP!!!!!
 

Got a job to do brakes. 1971 Super beetle, easy right? Don't think so!! Rear brakes locking up. Not exactly locking up just not releasing. They drove this around for a bit smoking them and then letting them cool off and then go some more. I have worked on beetles, super beetles, and busses for years. I have never had an issue like this one before. I start with a master cylinder rear wheel cylinders and shoes, oh and new hardware kits. Can't get a pedal. No matter what I do. I take the master cylinder back to where the purchased it. Had to actually debate with the guy about it being defective. I bench bled it installed it. Attempted to bleed it (on vehicle). Removed it bench bled it again. Re-installed it. Still nothing. Ok so at the parts store. Get another one. Bench it. Bleed out vehicle, got a pedal. Adjust brakes drive, re-adjust brakes. Pedal just doesn't feel right. Front brakes continuing to have more drag then what I set them at. Noticed one other thing as well, rubber lines feel like they are expanding when I grab them and have someone push the pedal. Change lines (all 4) and now tis time I can't build a pedal. Bench- install- attempt to bleed- remove- bench- install- attempt to bleed- nothing. Tried gravity bleed, vacuum bleed, tried slow like supposed to, finally got it by "FRUSTRATION bleed" ( rapidly pumping and using finger as check valve). Tried hose in bottle, tried hose with built in check valve, only the "frustration bleed" got pressure. Got a pedal, still doesn't feel right. Ok now I talked to a guy who tells me something good to know. When you sit up a VW for an extended period of time like years upon years (like this one) and then try to drive it the system has corroded. The puny little springs aren't enough to return the wheel cylinders after they are extended. Ok now I know what was up with the rear brakes. Now I have to change front wheel cylinders. Remove drums, wash and repack wheel bearings. Bleed and Bleed, still nothing. Break down and purchase $300 pressure bleeding system like I use in the garage I work at. Has a pressure tank, filled with fluid. Pressurize the tank, open the valve and consistent flow of pure fluid. Just crack bleeders and let it go. Changed rear drums due to visible expansion / flexing under pressure. Now back to the pressure pot. Bled about a quart of fluid through all 4 wheels. Got a pedal, good. Make adjustment. Drive re-adjust. Remove idler arm bracket, change out old rubber bushing, with brass bushing. That fixed the shimmy problem. Trouble is the pedal is gone again Some times you have some pressure behind the push, not what should be there but something and sometime nothing. If you give about 3 half pumps and then put it to it, now it will stop on a dime. Pulling my hair out here!!!!! Oh and I did change the flex hose from steel lines of the reservoir to master with the Germany blue hose. $20/ft!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have never run up against such a problem in all my life. I have been a mechanic since a little kid working on lawnmowers and transitioned into vehicles. I have rebuilt brake systems on all my VeeDubs and never experienced such a thing as this. I remember checking for leaks along all steel lines as well. I know this is a common problem with beetles.