95 gl III rough idle at running temp?
 

i have a bunch of codes that i have pulled from the car that dont even make sense. but the ones that do are o2 sensor, egr malfunction, and egr frequency valve. it runs perfect until the car reaches running temp. after you let it warm up and give it some gas it falls on its face and starts missing really bad til 3k rpms after that it still runs strong. here is a list of all the codes.
2441
2111
2341
1321
1322
3434
4312
i have checked everywhere and nobody has any clue what most of these translate to. also, it has an aftermarket cold air intake and i an exhaust leak directly after the catalyc converter.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak and the exhaust leak would be a big problem too. I can tell you what all the codes are if you need me to.

just 3 of them. i have a referrence for the rest of them.
1321
1322
3434
i cant find these anywhere

I beleive you have something bad wrong going on.
1321 & 1322 are the same, ignition control or misfire.
3434 - Cylinder 5 Deactivation intake valve control performance.

i had a piece of plastic fall into the intake manifold a couple of weeks ago and i thought maybe it would burn off or something. im not sure about this but other forums have told me absolutely nothing about this issue and i assumed it would be fine. if the car runs perfect until running temp then how can it be the valves? and the ignition code, what is that? coil or distributor? it has new autolite platinum plugs in it, and new wires. so i dont think it could be either of those.

How big of a piece of plastic are we talking about here?

throttle body cleaner straw... i took the upper manifold off and couldnt find it. im scared it might mess up my intake valves or something.

I'd say that's a good assumption. Did you take the lower intake manifold off to look at the valves?

no just the top... do you think its still in there? if so how is it possible that the temp of the engine has anything to do with the way it runs? i would imagine that if there was something lodged in one of the valves that it would run ****ty all the time....

I have no answer for those questions. I've never delt with something like this before. I can just recommend to take a look at your valves especially the one on the number 5 cyl. Make sure you get new gaskets to put on and let me know what you find, I am very curious.

hell i forgot to mention its the 2.0... there is no # 5 cyl. im going to drop it off at a local shop on monday and have them run a diagnostic on it. they only charge $50 and it will only be 1-2 days.

would the iac cause the idle problems when the car is warm?

iac? Intake air temp sensor?

idle air control valve, or idle control valve.... thats primary code its throwing. 4431. i dont think its the ecu because its verry consistant with iac problems, and consistant in its nature. as in it is like clock work. when the car reaches running temp it starts idling crappy, but runs fine outside of idle speed...

I'd take a look at that then. I don't know how to test one, my idle is controlled by the throttle body control module.

the idle control module and the idle air control valve are basically the same thing. i just dont want to spend that much on it and it not be the problem... that part is like $300

okay my 95 honda accord is doin the same thing and its the iac.

That's a bad bit of luck. Is there something in the air where you live? I don't know what to suggest. I got an entire throttle body which includes the throttle control for my car for $375. Due to all the mods I've made my car idles pretty rough too. I'm trying to learn to live with it but I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my car.

yeah id say there might be something in the air where i live... the entire town i live in is made up of a big place called the eastman. there is about 50 swuare miles of it in the center of kingsport tn. anyway, if you or anybody else has one for sale id like to know...

okay i took the idle control off and cleaned it out, and checked the egr valve to make sure it wasnt sticking. the only thing i havent ruled out is the catalytic converter. so i think its either the idle control or the cat... im going tomorrow to have the cat pressure tested and if it comes back fine im ordering the iacv... im keepin my fingers crossed.

just a quik update. i drove the car for around 2 hours today and took it back to the house to check it out. i unhooked the vac line going into the egr valve and just like that it started idling normal. is this the valve itself or the egr temp sender?

I think it's a safe bet you have a bad egr valve.

lol... thats been the root of all this the whole time... i got the exhaust put on today. nothin special just 2' pipe from the cat back it has a deep growl to it with the muffler i put on it. also stained the headlights and put my stock wheels back on it. thanks for all the input man i really appreciate it. now on to a new thread about my troublesome mkIII.....

could one of you tell me how to pull the codes i asked on vortex but the forum they referd me to didnt work.it said 1hold the botton under the speedo2.turn the key to on then 3 turn the key off and release the button 4 press an hold the bottom clock button and then you should see ----5 release and turn the key to on what did i do wrong im sorry if this seems stubid but im new to the newer vws i was use to my88 rocco.im very new to this site and to vortex but i would rather try my luck here because iv been getting attacked at vortex for not knowing any thing.

if you have a mk3 before 99.5 then remove your ashtray and slide the small panel next to it to the left. there you should see a black plug. turn the key over til you see the check engine light come on. take a jumper wire and insert one end top row 4th to the right, and the other end bottom row 2nd to left. i will see if i can get you a link up for a pic by pic of this.

here you go man i hope this helps...

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/car...ions/96mk3.GIF

ok i think i got it
 

ok from what i can gather you count the engine light blinking i didnt know that, i thought the code would come up on the screen.ok i got 2113 whats this mean i hope its not to bad and this is the only one i could get .now i only messed with it for 5 min .when you have more than one code do you do it over again to get more or do you wait.thank you for telling me how now i am gonna pray its not to bad:):confused:

2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.

not exactly sure how to adjust the potentiometer or even what one is. the way to get all the codes is to pull one, re-insert the wire for another 3-5 seconds and repeat this proccess until the light blinks 4 long blinks. this is the signal that the code sequence is complete... someone else will have to tell you how to adjust that other part and im not sure about the air flow sensor plate either...

hey thanks
 

thanks you have been very helpful :):)