Hello,
I'm new, and introduced myself in intro forum. I have a question about the shift interlock solenoid. I just replaced my whole ignition due to a stuck key in the run position. When this issue first began, the key was hard to turn the 2 times before it ended up permanently stuck. Yes, I forced it on and off, not yet aware of this potential problem. Upon arriving home, to shut the car off, I pulled fuel pump fuse, and F 27 and 28 for the lights. Then, unhooked battery. To start it up again, I would replace the fuses, reconnect battery, and just turn the key to run. Key would not turn to off. Tried everything from jiggling key and wheel to pushing shift from drive to park. In fact, I may have done it a little too hard, and broke or killed an already dying shift lock solenoid. I figured out how to push the pin in to move the shifter out of park, but my car then began driving in limp mode. I thought it was just from all the fuse pulling, but now that I bought a new battery , and installed the ignition, the problem persists. I know this solenoid could also have been the cause of the stuck key too, but when I inspected the lock cylinder once I was able to remove it, the plastic key lock part was sheared off on one corner. Not sure if it was from wear, or from me forcing the key when perhaps the lock housing was sticking. These are just my guesses based on what I have learned about this wonderful and expensive issue. Once I finally got my parts in and installed the new key lock cylinder and lock housing, I still had a limp mode issue. The P,R,N,D,S is absent from the dash, and I went to auto parts store to scan. UO101 came up. I went home, and tried the resetting of the ECU and TCM tricks I found on the internet. This did not work. I guess I gotta suck it up, and go to the dealer now. I just want to know if the shift lock solenoid could be the reason for limp mode, and was the possible cause of the stuck key. Do I HAVE to replace this part, or can it be removed permanently and the computers reprogrammed without it. I have NEVER in my life started a car in gear, except for maybe a manual and you learn quickly from that, but never an automatic. I have no kids, so no need to worry about that. I do not NEED this safety part, but does the car need it to function. Is it part of a loop that won't function without it? I know this part and labor are expensive, and I am trying to prepare myself in case the dealer says I absolutely have to replace it, or some other stuff. Thanks in advance for reading and possibly answering if able to.

Rebecca 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5L,

 

Turned out that the number 30 fuse was misplaced. Everything functioning normally now. I even had a VW mechanic tell me I need a new TCM, and wiring harness because oil migrated into it. I am rolling my eyes so hard it hurts, but I actually believed it for a few hours.

 

Where are you based Rebecca as the Rabbit isn't used in Europe unless its an import. The Rabbit is based on the Golf I don't have a 2.5 only 1.5 1.6 1.7 and 1.8.

e.g.

Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 08/1976-07/1979, Model: Rabbit, Engine Code: CK, 37Kw, 50PS, 1.5 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Diesel, Rabbit in USA, Golf in Canada, Caribe in Mexico
Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 08/1982-07/1984, Model: Rabbit, Engine Code: CY, 51Kw, 70PS, 1.6 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Turbo Diesel, Rabbit in USA, Golf in Canada, Caribe in Mexico Timing belt
Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 01/1980-07/1984, Model: Rabbit, Engine Code: EN, 57Kw, 78PS, 1.7 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Rabbit in USA, Golf in Canada, Caribe in Mexico
Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 08/1982-07/1984, Model: Rabbit, Engine Code: JH, 70Kw, 95PS, 1.8 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Rabbit in USA, Golf in Canada, Caribe in Mexico

You need to get your motor scanned (preferably with VAG-COM\VCDS) for any error codes logged in the ecu and post them, that will save a lot of guessing and check systems out.