Can a faulty fuel pump cause gas to get into the crankcase? If so, how? Furthermore, if I need to rebuild the pump, where do you recommend sending for a rebuild kit?

 

If gas is dripping into the intake and gets into the cylinders while the engine isn't running, it'll leak past the rings and into the crankcase. Which of your vehicles has the issue?

 

The problem is with the '64 convertible. Original engine (1,200cc, 40hp), carb (Solex), and fuel pump. I did a bit more diagnosis. The fuel pump shows grease underneath, so I presume gas is not leaking from the fuel pump into the crankcase. On the other hand, I removed the top of the carb and there was no gas in the bowl. I filled the bowl, left the top off, and the gas is slowly draining out to somewhere. There are no apparent leaks to the outside. How could gas leak out the carburetor bowl and down the intake manifold?

 

Hard to say exactly where the bowl is leaking (hopefully a Solex expert will chime in), but rebuild kits for the original Solex are pretty inexpensive: 1964 VW Beetle Royze Carburetor Kit 113198575URK

Keep in mind that if the leaking gas doesn't pass through the rings and enough pools in a cylinder, it can hydrolock the cylinder and possibly bend a rod when you start the engine. Definitely don't want that to happen.

 

Thank you for the heads up. After I change the oil to get the gas out, I'll take out the spark plugs and turn the engine over many times to flush out all gas, and maybe even squirt some oil into each cylinder to assure proper lubing.

As an update, I removed the carb, took off the top, and put gas in the bowl and sat it upright on the workbench, and no gas leaked out, so the carb seems OK. It only leaked when I tipped the carb enough for gas to move through the internal channels and come out the port in the middle of the venturi below the choke plate. I'm back to thinking I need to replace the fuel pump to stop gas from getting into the sump.

I am considering switching to an electric (6volt) fuel pump instead of the mechanical one. Any suggestions you have on where and how to install an electric fuel pump would be appreciated.

 

It would only have to turn over a few times to eject any liquids. If you oil the cylinders, let it sit awhile so it can seep into the rings where it does some good, then turn the engine over again without the spark plugs just to make sure you don't hydrolock due to the oil. If you need anything else, here are the items we offer for your Beetle: https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/volkswagen~beetle.html

 

Thank you again for the link to carpartsdiscount.com. Before installing the new fuel pump, I drained old oil/gas mixture, squirted in some oil, turned engine over without plugs, put in new oil, and fired it up. I think I have the leak solved with a new fuel pump. It continues to run rough, which could be caused by a combination of old fuel + various applications over time of SeaFoam and StaBil. I always use non-ethanol gas which is readily available here for recreational use (mostly boating). My next step is to put in about 8 gallons of non-ethanol gas and drive for a 5 miles to clear out or at least dilute the additives. Then, drain the flush oil and put in new 30 wt. Then, if the car still runs rough (appears #4 and/or #2 may not sometimes be firing), re-clean the carburetor in carb cleaner bath. I have abandoned the idea of installing an electric fuel pump. However, I'm considering installing a mechanical advance distributor I have in order to see if I might have a vacuum problem. Any thoughts? If the ignition condenser is marginal or faulty, what are the symptoms? Further thoughts you have?

 

Normally a faulty condenser will show up on the contact breakers burning more often than normal. They don't cost much so replace it.